Category Archives: Barbeque

Wall Street Journal says Tri-Tip is “New Cut”

So I occasionally read articles in the Wall Street Journal.  One that caught my eye was their recent “New Steak on the Block” article for several reasons.  The first was that they quoted Gordon Ramsay, and watching Hell’s Kitchen is a guilty pleasure of mine.  And the second is that they announced the “tri-tip” cut was being rolled out to the mid-west, and called it one of the new cuts of beef.

Now, I happen to love Tri-tip, this is still one of my favorite recipes: Barbeque: Santa Maria Smoked Tri-Tip, so it’s nice to see the rest of the country getting introduced to this great cut.  The other great thing about this article is that it also shows that more restaurants are getting into the idea of sustainable living and getting the most out of every animal butchered.

Very high-end restaurants like Gramercy Tavern in New York are embracing "nose to tail" cooking, in which almost every part of an animal is eaten. These chefs like to order whole animals to control the quality and ethics of their purchase.

Each week 900 pounds, about half a cow, is delivered to Gramercy Tavern. Its challenge is making traditionally plebeian parts of the animal acceptable to dinners accustomed to ordering filet mignon, says executive chef and partner Michael Anthony.

I love the term “nose to tail” cooking.  You reduce waste, and it makes great financial sense.  And for the record, according to R.H. Tesene’s definitive book titled Santa Maria Style Barbecue, “In the 1950s, a local butcher named Bob Schutz perfected the tri-tip, which is a two to three pound triangular shaped cut off the top sirloin.”

Barbeque Cooking Tips

Once again we’re gearing up for Sumer, and that means it is Barbeque season. Basically barbeque is special technique that is used to add great taste to beef, pork, chicken, or even vegetables.  Cooking barbeque style means cooking on low heat or using the smoke from chunks of wood that gives the food a great flavor.  Barbeque cooking is not very hard to do, you just need to follow a couples instructions and tips for perfect Barbeque. 

Some people have very particular methods or myths (See MythBusting Backyard Barbeque Myths for some of these ).

I’ve always been a great fan of Tri-Tip, here’s one of my favorite recipes: Barbeque: Santa Maria Smoked Tri-Tip

However, if you’re looking for some good tips to make your Barbeque experience fun, healthy and tasty, here’s a few things to remember this summer:

General tips regarding barbeque:

  • Barbeque should be cooked on slow heat, this is what helps break down to collagen.
  • Make sure that grill that you will use is clean.
  • When using a coal barbeque, the coals are ready when surface of coals are grey and all the flames are gone.
  • Keep a spray water bottle near you as you can use it in case of flare-ups.
  • Plan your barbeque cooking, keep everything on hand for frequently uses.
  • If you marinate, do so for 30 minutes right before you put it on the grill.
  • A good basting brush makes for awesome barbeque cooking.

If you follow these tips, you will be a Barbeque god this Summer and enjoy the thrill of the grill.

Barbeque–Grilling Fruit

This may sound a bit strange, but grilled fruit can be amazing and a great way to use some of the extra grilling surface on your barbeque!  Especially great during the summer months when it can be a great accompaniment to your grilled meats.  Bananas, peach halves, slices of pineapple – you can grill almost any fruit big enough not to fall through the grates and will stand up to the heat of the grill.

Consider the fruits you like with various other foods when deciding which fruits to pair with which meat, fish, or poultry. For instance, apples are great with pork or chicken; peaches and nectarines are nice with lighter fish; pineapple can stand up to beef yet it’s also good with pork. Most fruits work well with lamb.

Always begin with a clean grill. This is never more important than when grilling fruit, which is more delicate than other foods and picks up the residual flavors of onions, garlic, meat, or fish.

To clean your grill, heat the gas grill for 15 minutes on high and use a long-handled wire brush to clean any residue from the grill. Before grilling, build a medium-high fire or heat the gas grill to medium-high. Fruit needs good heat but not overpowering heat.

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Fruit cooks in two to four minutes, turning once or twice, depending on the size of the fruit and the number of exposed cut surfaces. Large chunks may require a little longer, so plan accordingly.  If you’re going to use a marinade with the fruit, remember that you don’t want to brush on a marinade in which raw meat or poultry has soaked over grilling food, so reserve some marinade or make a finishing sauce for last-minute brushing.

You can also try sprinkling the cut surfaces of the fruit with a little sugar before putting it on the grill. The raw sugar coating will caramelize faster than the sugars already present in the fruit, ensuring a perfect golden color and deep caramelized flavor without overcooking the fruit.

Bananas can be grilled directly in their skin until it blackens and then grilled to caramelize.

Pineapples are wonderful grilled as rings or cut into chunks and skewered. Other fruits do best skewered or wrapped in foil.

Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for two days.

MythBusting Backyard Barbeque Myths

With Summer sneaking up, I thought I’d talk a bit about some of the evil myths out there about backyard barbeque….

The best cooked rib meat falls off the bone

Properly roasted ribs are tender but still have some chew, similar to a tender steak. They don’t fall off the bone. If they do, chances are they have been boiled. In KCBS and FBA competitions, the judges do not like the meat to fall off the bone. The meat must have some consistency and not be too dry or mushy. What this means is the meat must stick to the bone well enough so you can pick a bone up and eat it without the meat falling off the bone by itself. But when you bite it, the meat should easily pull clean from the bone. If you can bite into the rib and get that "half moon" bite and then the rest of the meat comes off easily with subsequent bites, then you have probably hit the nail on the head.

This is from the KCBS judges instructions…

"Judging pork ribs can be very subjective. However, when judging competition ribs you must consider a few factors. When sampling a properly cooked contest rib the area of the meat where the bite is taken should be pulled cleanly from the bone with very little effort. The exposed bone of a well cooked rib will often dry immediately. Ribs should be moist, flavorful and possess good texture. They can be presented with or without sauce. Ribs may be presented in single or multi bone presentation. Any questions should be directed to the KCBS Contest Representative. When a rib is overcooked most or all of the meat comes off the bone when sampled. Additionally the meat of an overcooked rib has a tendency to be mushy and have a poor texture."

Always use tongs

Famed butcher/author Merle Ellis years ago punctured the myth of having to use tongs. He said that a piece of beef is multicellular, not like a balloon. Its more like a sponge. Think of it….a side view of a piece of steak. The fibers are running top to bottom, and the fork tongs merely go between the fibers, not pierce or break them. When you cook, however, you can lose up to 20% from heat pressure forcing the moisture out of the muscle. Worry more about overcooking than using a fork. That being said, I generally prefer tongs just because I can grip the meat and get a feel for how done it is without sticking my finger in it.

Salt toughens meat because it pulls out the moisture

I always salt and pepper my steaks, it’s one of the things that adds a nice crust to the surface of the meat and enhances the flavor.  The key here is that you’re not making beef jerky or smoking salmon and trying to preserve the meat.  So in order to get a nice flavorful crust you want to pull the meat from the fridge, season it, and then get it on the grill.  If you salt your meat several hours before you cook it, you’re doing it wrong.

Turn steaks often when you grill them

Well, only if you want to knock off all that great seasoning you just applied when you salted your steak.  I believe this little myth came about because people want to evenly cook their steak, so turning it gets both sides cooking together.  But now you lose that wonderful maillard reaction and you end up heating and cooling both sides of the steak giving you a nice grey steak.  Put the grill on the steak, leave it alone, flip it once.  You get an awesome crust and tasty browning reacting that comes with roasted meats that we all crave.

Thermometers aren’t for the pros

Forget all the rules of thumb, they are inconsistent and quite frankly very subjective.  I personally use an instant read digital thermometer and it comes out perfect every time, here’s a chart on the ideal temperature to cook your meet to:

Beef Fahrenheit
Rare 120° – 125°
Medium-rare 130° – 135°
Medium 140° – 145°
Medium-well 150° – 155°
Well done 160° and above
Lamb  
Rare 135°
Medium-rare 140° – 150°
Medium 160°
Well done 165° and above
Poultry  
Chicken 165° – 175°
Turkey 165° – 175°
Pork 150°

Pink meat is uncooked meat

Having recently had this conversation with my in-laws about properly cooking pork, I can absolutely tell you that just because there is a pink ring just below the surface of the meat that doesn’t mean it’s uncooked.  When you slow cook meat you get that awesome pink zone, sometimes called a smoke ring.  When you oven cook poultry you can also get pink flesh.  This goes to the point above that you always want to use a thermometer when you are cooking because different cooking techniques, the age of the animal the meat came from, how fat they were, even what they ate will ultimately affect how their cooked meat will turn out.

Boil ribs to make them tender

When you boil meat and bones, you make soup. Seriously, take a good piece of meat and try to drown it?  I’ve heard many times that you need to boil ribs or they won’t be tender.  Boiling also removes vitamins and minerals. That’s why the water is cloudy when you’re done.  Ribs are most flavorful when roasted and allowed to keep all that yummy goodness.  Remember that as the surface of foods heat above 310°F, amino acids and sugars react together, scores of new compounds form, and the surfaces start to brown, a process called the Maillard reaction, and it develops a richness and depth of flavor, not to mention crunchy texture.  If you’ve boiled away those compounds, you loose that goodness.

Sizzling steak tastes best fresh off the grill

Meh, only in restaurants that want to go for flare and not flavor.  You eat something hot of the grill and you get a somewhat dry and leathery texture (not to mention a burned tongue).  Just like with turkeys and roasts you want to let the meat rest for a few minutes before tucking in to your meal.  This gives the muscle a chance to relax from the heat pressure and reintegrate with the juices that got pushed out during the cooking process which in turn gives you a more juicy and tender steak that doesn’t gush juices out on the plate the minute you cut into it.

Soak wood before using it

Turns out not a lot happens when you soak wood overnight.  The penetration into the wood isn’t worth the effort and it quickly evaporates anyways.  You give your meat a nice 10 minute steam bath and then the soaked chips are dry as a bone again.  Worry more about the flavor of the wood (apple, oak, mesquite) than how long it has been soaking, after all it’s not a Palmolive commercial.

Meat should be room temperature before cooking

Not quite sure how this one got started, but leaving meat out at room temperature for any length of time is just a really bad idea.  Now if you’re dealing with frozen meat (And I often do because we get a lot of our meat from a local farm as a cow share and need to store an entire side of beef for up to a year) you’ll want to put it in the fridge to thaw, and only take it out the moment you are ready to season it and throw it on the grill. On the grill the internal temp heats up nicely and takes you quickly past the danger zone.

The juices from a steak are blood

Blood is thick and coagulates when exposed to air. There is very little blood in the juice. The animals are bled at the slaughterhouse. Most of the color of the juice is due to a protein, myoglobin, that is stored in the muscle.  At about 140F red meat begins to turn pink as the myoglobin begins to change. As the temperature rises above 140F myoglobin starts to go from pink to clear, and the meat turns tan. At that temp the meat starts to toughen as the proteins denature.

Basic Smoked Beef Jerky

I love beef jerky, but it can get quite expensive.  If your only experience with this lovely creation is from the little tiny plastic bags at the grocery store then you have done yourself a disservice! 

The typical homemade Smoked Beef Jerky Recipe calls for the beef to be marinated in artificial smoke to get all of its smoked flavor. It is then placed in a dehydrator for several hours until dry.  That’s heads and shoulders above the store bought plastic they pass off for jerky these days, but we can do better (Yes we can!).  Never, ever trust any packaging that says “Natural Style*” with an asterisk.

YUM!

YUCK!

smoked beef jerky recipe

 

To be authentic, a smoked beef jerky recipe should use a smoker.  Now some would argue that charcoal is the only way to go – I’m not going to debate charcoal vs. electric here, but lets just say I use the electric.  That being said, the smoker is the only way to get that classic and "true" smoky taste that is desired.

The smoked beef jerky recipe dried outside on a smoker is a little closer to the old cowboy jerky. That’s when beef was cured and dried to preserve for eating on the long trails. It is naturally preserved instead of loaded with preservatives.

I’ve been playing around with different variations of this basic recipe for years, every time the supermarkets would have a sale on beef I would grab a few pounds.  here’s what to start with:

Homemade Beef Jerky

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2-3 pounds steak/roast/london broil (whatever is on sale), cut into 1/4 inch thick slices
  • 1 cup soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce
  • 1/4 cup cider vinegar (white wine vinegar works too)
  • 1/4 cup brown sugar

DIRECTIONS:
In a large bowl or Ziploc bag, combine everything.  Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Prepare an outdoor smoker for low heat and lightly oil grate.

Lay the meat out on the grill so that the strips do not touch. Smoke over the lowest heat on your smoker.  Beef jerky will be done when the edges appear dry with just a tiny bit of moisture in the middle of the pieces of meat, or about 6-8 hours.  After your first bite you’ll never go back to store bought jerky again.  You’re welcome!